This is not a complete installation guide, this is just some notes to help the installer.

Wiring Information

You will need to cut the level sensor wires off of the factory assembly. Cut them as close as you can to the top to preserve as much length as possible. You will crimp one of the provided terminals to each wire, then insert them into the connector on the inside of the pump assembly.

The factory assembly has a temperature sensor. This is not used in the CJM assembly. To prevent a Service Engine Soon light, you will need to purchase a 2.4K Ohm resistor and wire it in-line (outside the tank) to replace the sensor.

Carefully route the slack on all wires inside the assembly. You do not want them in contact with any sharp edges that would wear away at the insulation, such as a hose clamp, as the vehicle vibrates.

You will need to use the factory fuel pump power wires to activate a pair of relays that you will use to power the twin pumps. This means running a decent gauge power wire from the battery to the relays and then to the pump connector.

IMPORTANT NOTE ON STAGING THE FUEL PUMPS; If you desire to stage the fuel pumps, that can be done. But it is important that you correctly wire which pump is the primary and which is the secondary. The primary pump MUST be the pump that is closer to the transfer siphon barb on the bottom of the canister. This pump runs the transfer siphon, which is why it needs to be in full time use. The other pump that has the hole in the can underneath it will be the secondary pump to engage under high load.

Summarized Recommended Wiring Parts List:

Terminal Installation

Note: Use a Volt Meter to make sure you are inserting terminals in the correct port of the plugs. You do not want to accidently reverse polarity of the pumps or send 12v to the level sensor.

CAUTION: While the plugs that go on the inside and the outside of the wiring bulkhead are identical, the one that goes inside the tank must be prepared. The rubber dust seal behind the terminals and the slider dust seal must be removed. If they are not removed, they will expand and extrude into chunks of rubber to clog your pump pickups. Please verify that the connector plug you are going to put on the inside of the bulkhead does not have any rubber inside or out. Also, the sliding safety lock needs to be removed from the connector that is being used inside the tank. This should have already been done for you, but please verify.

Remove the blue Terminal Lock by
pulling outward with needle-nose pliers.

This is what it looks like with the Terminal Lock removed.

Insert crimped terminals into the back of the connector as shown. 
Either flat side can face up.

Slide the terminal in until you hear/feel the click.

These connectors feature a safty lock that prevents them from being pulled off. 
This photograph shows the unlocked position.

This photograph shows the LOCKED position.
The connector cannot be removed in this position.

Plumbing Information

The twin pump assembly comes with no plumbing outside the tank. There are several ways to plumb this assembly based on the vehicle owners needs. We do offer a twin pump plumbing kit to adapt the twin pump assembly to our Stage 2 kits, creating the Stage 3 kit. Feel free to contact us about a Stage 3 plumbing upgrade.

To adapt the CJM Stage 1 or Stage 2 return fuel hose to the twin fuel pump assembly, you can use Earl's part number 921106ERL or a similar product.

The OEM fuel filter is located inside the OEM pump assembly. Since you are removing this OEM pump assembly, you may want to install an inline external fuel filter. We do with our Stage 3 upgrade.

The pump output fittings on the top of the twin pump assembly are -6 and facing straight up. Therefore you will need a pair of 90 degree -6 hose ends. Then you will need to run those 2 lines under the car and go from there. We would recommend running them into a Y fitting and using a single -8 or -10 up to the engine bay.

You will need a -6 return line to support the twin pumps.